![]() ![]() ![]() They often license real cars and leagues, but are equally open to more exotic settings and vehicles. For the most part, arcade-style racers simply remove the precision and rigor required from the simulation experience and focus strictly on the racing element itself. Collisions with other racers, track obstacles, or traffic vehicles is usually much more exaggerated than simulation racers as well. Whereas in real racing (and subsequently, the simulation equivalents) the driver must reduce their speed significantly to take most turns, arcade-style racing games generally encourage the player to "powerslide" the car to allow the player to keep up their speed by drifting through a turn. A key feature of arcade-style racers that specifically distinguishes them from simulation racers is their far more liberal physics. Those videos taught me some basics of how to tune a car for rain driving.Sega Rally arcade racing games at the Veljekset Keskinen department store in Tuuri, Finland in 2017Īrcade-style racing games put fun and a fast-paced experience above all else, as cars usually compete in unique ways. I have never raced in the rain in real life, and most the other sims I have played never had forced races in the rain. One thing that was getting me on this game was the rain. There are some old skip barber racing school intro videos that have helped me both in real life and in the sims. There is nothing better than brushing up on a few road racing technique videos. Turning these off will force you to memorize the track (specifically, your brake landmarks like the end of the wall on road america for the gt3 class, and ofcourse the apex's). The line is a bad habit, although it can be somewhat correct in simple areas, often times it is way to general to get you consistent good lap times. Try turning off the maps and suggested lines. The actual racing line there goes out to the left anyway, but because of how tight that corner is, I usually try passing in that turn and end up on the outside hitting those bumps. You could adjust the fast bump a bit softer to help with that (always adjusting left and right in tandem), but I personally like a stiffer set up for less weight transfer. For instance, coming onto the main down hill straight after the last tight turn at Spa, if you are a bit to the right (if I remember correctly here) there are many bumps that are hard to see, but if you hit them and adjust your steering at all, the car can easily lose control. I always use full real damage when practicing (i have to admit I do not use full damage during races) because it will encourage me to find my racing line more cautiously, which gives me time to absorb the feel of the track as well. But if you can't do that, there is no point to using a sim. The hardest part of any sim is treating it as real life. Smooth accel and brake are critical in real life racing, and this game takes that physic seriously. Imagining the gas, brake, and steering wheel all tied together with a length of string can help you visualize what can and cannot be done. The goal of racing is to find the most effective line to make the most out of the traction you have available. Whether accelerating, braking, or turning, there is only a finite amount of traction that is distributed to each. On a wheel controller, you can feel the front tires losing grip before its too late to recover, but I imagine on the ds4 there is little or no warning when you hit maximum traction.Ī few simulator tips that have really helped me. I noticed a lot of the vehicles start with a low ratio which make the wheel snappy. If using a gamepad, (again, i haven't really played with one so I could be incorrect here), try raising the ratio to allow a more loose rack. I should mention the steering rack ratio in particular. Just keep at it and once you are comfortable the game is a ton of fun!Īlso since I am now at a keyboard. I generally use a lmp car on nurburgring in free mode when running FFB because those cars will leave the pits with warm tires. Just try a few until something feels good. It would be easily overwhelming if it were my first experience with car tuning and it was my first experience with FFB tuning but there are many guides available to help you out. There are a ton of settings to change and play with both FFB wise and car wise. (unless you are doing a race, then they will be preheated). Usually a slow first lap, hard 2nd lap, then fill out for the 3rd lap, and they are usually good to go by the 4th. Keep in mind the tires are very realistic in this game so they need a proper warm up. I was lucky my fanatec wheel was patched to be used on this game. ![]() Others have mentioned this but here are my two cents. ![]()
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